Learning to Weave

APRON BAR -- Flat metal rod, attached to beam with cords or tape; permits warp threads to be tied to beam.

BEAM -- Term used to describe the four cross pieces of the loom, front and back. Starting at the rear, the Warp Beam is the back roller on which the warp threads will be held for weaving. The Back Beam is the flat metal or wood strip just above the warp beam, over which the warp threads must go before being threaded into the rest of the loom. The Cloth Beam is the roller in front, on which the finished weaving will be rolled up as you work. Just above this is the Front Beam--sometimes known as Breast Beam--over which the fabric passes as it is woven.

BEATER -- The wood or metal frame which holds the reed; moves back and forth to “beat’’ in each crosswise thread as you weave.

CASTLE --The upright, center part of the loom, which contains most of the working parts.

CROSS -- The technique of placing one thread up and the next one down to produce an "X" in order to keep the threads in the exact same order.  

DENT -- The space between the thin metal strips which form the reed, used to keep warp threads evenly spaced. Reeds are made “so-many” dents per inch, from about 4 per inch for coarse thread warps, through many sizes to a very fine, such as 20 or 30 dents per inch. Changing the reed in a loom is not difficult.  It is good to have several on hand, to choose the right size for your particular project.

DOG -- The metal part which catches in the notches of the disc at one end of the beam. This permits holding lengthwise (warp) threads under adjustable tension. These are also used to release the beams so warp threads can be wound forward as you weave. Also known as PAWL or BRAKE.

Draft -- A diagram to show how the threads should be put into the loom and how it maybe woven for certain patterns

ENDS -- The lengthwise threads put into a loom. Fabric is often described as having so many “e.p.i.” or “ends-per-inch”.

FELL -- The edge of the fabric where it “grows” as you weave.

HARNESS -- A metal frame hung in the upright part of the loom, holding the heddles through which the lengthwise weaving threads (or warp) pass. Your loom may have two, four, eight or more of these frames.

HEDDLE -- The long, slim metal part with an eye, or hole, to hold the thread. Usually each harness frame contains about an equal number of heddles; for some patterns it may be necessary to move some heddles from one harness frame to another.

HOOK (Threading or Reed Hook) -- Designed for use in pulling threads thru the heddle eyes, as well as thru the dents or spaces in the reed.

LEASE STICKS or RODS -- A pair of flat, smooth sticks with holes in each end. Used to keep threads in order when using a “cross” in the warping.

LOOM -- A specially designed frame and appropriate mechanisms to hold threads in order, under tension, permitting easy weaving of fabric.

OVERSHOT -- A type of weaving characterized by a crosswise thread (known as a “float”) lying on top of two or more lengthwise threads. Structurally this fabric is a plain weave, but has additional pattern threads which lie on the surface in regular order to form patterns.

RATCHET WHEEL -- The disc at the end of the front or back beam, with teeth or notches. Works with the “dog” to keep warp or fabric from unrolling. Maintains tension.

REED -- So called because in early looms this part was made of reed fibers. Now they are metal, serving to keep threads separated, as well as to beat each crosswise thread as it is forming the fabric.

SELVEDGE (or SELVAGE) -- The side edge of the woven fabric, where each crosswise thread turns and goes in the opposite direction.

SET (or SETT) -- The number of lengthwise threads per inch put into the loom, controlled by reed size.

SHED -- The opening through which you pass the crosswise threads wound onto the shuttle. This opening is made by pressing one or more of the levers or treads, thus separating the warp ends into two layers, with the “shed” or space between.

SHOT (or PICK) -- One thread, put crosswise in the weaving.

SHUTTLE -- Tool for carrying crosswise threads. Can be a flat, stick-type with notched ends, or a boat shaped tool with an inner rod to hold a bobbin.

SLEY (pronounced “sleigh”) -- Refers to the number of lengthwise threads per inch put into the reed. Also used to refer to the process of pulling the threads through the reed with the hook.

TABBY -- A plain weave, with crosswise threads going over and under lengthwise threads as in darning. Also used to describe basic thread used between each pattern thread in overshot and pattern weaves.

TREADLING -- The order in which you operate the control levers or treads of the loom to obtain the correct weaving sequence.

TWILL -- Name for a common weave in which the threads forms diagonal pattern. Also the name of a threading draft which is probably the most frequently used and most useful. Also called “Straight Draw” in some books.

WARP -- The lengthwise threads put into a loom.

WEB  -- Combined lengthwise and crosswise threads, or the fabric.

WEFT -- The crosswise threads, put in with the shuttle. Also called “filler”, “filling” or in old books “woof”.