Ok.  So now Im getting happy with the posting.  This ones called the Basic Layout.  Its quite subject to change as I dont go for the "square look".  Topography and other things will affect it also.  But the basic idea here is that i want space and different areas and some degree of segregation of those spaces.

Here's the rundown of what i expect to remain basically as it's drawn (though definately shuffled around):  Drawbridge will be stationary; the idea is to drive over it through the gatehouse (which will be modled after Bodiam as I like their portcullis set-up).

The keep : I have no idea yet but it won't be a box. :no-no:

Im not sure what arrangement to have the misc. buildings section in - I know that theres surposed to be something that goes there but dont know what just yet.  Im not thrilled about the idea of having a hall.  Maybe it's just because I dont understand the use of one.  Naturally, who could do without their own "Beerchug Tavern"? - don't know what i plan to do along those lines ...we'll see what develops.

 I like the idea of the two guest towers and their ext. design with the stairwells etc.  those will probably stay like that.  The gardens and ruins are accessed from the courtyard via the pass-thru archways between the towers.

Temp help quaters are located outside the curtain wall (probably next to the industrial gate) though it isnt shown.

The moat : I hope to divert a stream.  Otherwise Ill have to come up with circulation/filtration ideas.  On the right side, it's just for show.  I wanted it to wrap around somewhat for aestetics.  On the left side the moat would turn into a pond perhaps with an island.

 On the wildlife side, the area has quite a bit of deer and other critters.  We expect that if we pull this off we'll have a regular farm going on.

Just some thoughts and humble opinion's on your project.

The miscellaneous buildings will come to you as time goes by, its a small thing in the scheme of the project even though the function of them is not. Wait, it'll come to you as the need shows it self.

 

A hall was used for large or small functions depending on the size and what was going on as well as for eating in. {I see a glossary coming soon}

 

[*]Got friends and or family? very many of them? expect to have more when things are finished and over with!

 

[*]Where do you feed them at?

 

[*]Where do you have that party?

 

The keep was at times a part of the gate house in a castle as you have planned.

 

Just for a reference the Scottish tower house's came in many different styles,

a box, an L, an X, a T and several others.

 

The moat : I hope to divert a stream.  Otherwise Ill have to come up with circulation/filtration ideas.  On the right side, it's just for show.  I wanted it to wrap around somewhat for aestetics.  On the left side the moat would turn into a pond perhaps with an island.

[*]Look into a heat exchanger for your heat/A.C. system its pipe field can be layed in the stream or moat.

 

[*]stock the pond with fish, a good food supply and it's restive too.

 

[*]Look into a filter system for drinking water.

 

[*]How is your sewer going through/around/under/ the pond? Will it be dependable enough not to leak into the water supply?

 

Will you use a water well? whats the water table like in your area? how deep will you have to go to hit good water?

 

Hmmm. deer eat veggies, think about a good, high fencing system.

:beerchug: Venison is really great when cooked right.  :laughlong:

First off, let me say that youre completely welcome to comment or make suggestions all that you please.  You've already demonstrated your diplomacy and further, you're a builder so ... I guess you're fairly qualified.  Here's my response to the above:

SMALL BUILDINGS: Yeah, they'll just fall in line when the time comes - those are just filler actions and by-the-ways.

HALL: Ok, so point well taken. My viewpoint continues to change and I believe that I will probably end up putting one.  AS it stands now I feeel that it could be of use...Im sure that one will grow on me.

GATEHOUSE/KEEP: this sounds good.  Possiblility.  Would be easier and maybe better.

Heat Xchanger: yeah, Im somewhat familiar with these from my solar installation days - good idea.  I also do plan on stocking the pond with fish both for entertainment and sanitation reasons  Dont know what will be going on ith the filter situation and drinking water.  There are wells there commonly the depth ranges from 30-200 ft.  But I understand that the water quality is quite good.  Many of these variable points depend upon the topography and waterways.  Like the sewer: The intent was to not have the moat totaly encircle the castle so that it made for easy transport and running utilities across the side which wasnt moated I figured about 2/3rds would have moat.  Ill know what to do when I find the property.

Jenny and I like deer quite a bit and so on this problem we'll just fence in the stuff we really want to guard and let Bambi and friends munch everything else till we get tired of them eating everything... and then Ill buy a gun... :D   People have told me my mind will change and it very well might but I think Ill let them come and go until It changes.  Leaving dog food out helps as a deterrant (or encouragement for them to bring their familiy and friends.)  But Id like to encourage them to come just stay out of our personal stash of veggies.

Here's a wider shot of the thing.  These are all individual elements that I'd like to have included on the grounds, though who knows in what arrangement until the land is obtained.

 This should serve to communicate the scope of the project, flavor and general , howshould i say?, "composition?" You get it.  If ya got ideas on this (ie better ways, watch-out-for's etc let me know.)

Not sure at this time that I have better ways of doing what you have planned, so far everything you have posted seems very reasonable.

 

I might suggest a few things to make your project more realistic looking later on but so far your doing great.

 

Heres a few things I've had to deal with:

The walls are heavy and your need adequate support foundation wise or better yet if possible bed rock is preferred.

Heavy equipment will all most be a necessity for this job so your need to have a good road built.

 

We have a D 9 and a D 3 bulldozer, one tracked front end loader, several other heavies assessable for our use plus a dump truck or two and of course several other vehicles.

One of my wifes little mail jeeps will do the run-a-bout on site jobs.

 

As you get nearer to building keep in mind that alot of materials will be used and how far they have to be brought in is one of the old problems with building a castle.

Many times what a castle was made of depended upon that.

 

Luckily for us we have rock on site and what we don't have can be found close by.

But now the mortar is a different story. We are using raw Lime or Quick lime as its known and that falls under strict laws about transport let along finding the stuff. It has to come from another state and trucked in so the only way of buying it is by the semi load, actually two semis at a time.

Once on site the stuff has to be kept perfectly dry until use because of its volatile nature can start fires, so the best thing to do is rent semi trailers for storage.

 

In using cement I know a person can have a concrete company put up a mixing operation on site often cheaper then having it brought in by the truck load if very many will be used.

 

Our wood will be aged oak timbers and that is something else that has to be trucked in because the forest industry, in this state like many others, have a strangle hold on the small mills.

 

One of the items I can say will be little or no problem for us  will be my metal work.

 

Just a few things to think about as your project gets closer at hand.

I have found it's better to organize before something is needed then to have to scramble to find it and cheaper too!!

Thank you.  this is all good stuff.  This is the kind of info that Ive been looking for.  Much of it are things that I have considered and was pretty sure that I would need but needed a second opinion or I just lacked certainty on it.

Ive got my uncle looking for a backhoe that someone wants to sell ; we could both use it.  (Uncle knows everyone).  I can appreciate the weight and larger footings and expended material - thats really the thing with the industrial zone in my basic layout - I expect the project to be ongoing and to then undergo refinements and additions hence there is a dedicated space that will be use for that and finally turned into something else useful when it's use is no longer required.

My idea with the oak is to use primarily the timber from the land (as oak is common in the area) what I cant get from the property I can probably get from someone else's - there's much construction going on and will be for quite some time. So Ill offer to fell the trees and remove for free or fraction of price.  Buy my own saw mill (Uncle finds and shares) cut and let dry in a ("kiln"?) outside in the industrail zone alo0ngside of all other manner of brickabrac that we find that can be used; stone from demolished stone walls (Superabundant is New England) etc. etc.  If Im lucky and can plan it out well, the lumber will be ready by the time it's needed - what does it take ... it's like 2 years, right- for lumber to dry out?

Thanks much for the "On-site concrete mix studio thing"  There's something I never thought of... Ill be keeping that in mind.  :)

 Im quite glad to see the corners of your mouth turn up at the plans thus far.  I cant think of a better way to create this type of thing for under a million and in less than 5 years.  

I will give this prediction though - and it can be taken as a compliment;  Were I to make this my life's work and the one thing that I was soley dedicated to above all else, I'm sure without doubt that I would make it absolutely to spec's along the lines of authenticity.  No modern cheater  S#!* would be allowed.  My viewpoint is transforming rapidly - you know ... a very wise man said once.."Anything that you do, do it as a professional." One shouldn't neccessarily give in and do it the easy way.  People often fail in this and think " Do it in the wat that will demand the least effort."

 We see this in manufacturing, particularly - the easiest way is the cheapest way is the most profitable way.

 So we get into a "do it the easy way."

Well, that may apply to making spoons for profit, but it does not apply to presentation.

 The whole world of the arts is directly opposed to the philosophy of the businessman or manufacturer.

Art seeks to create and effect.  An effect is not always created the easy way.  Indeed, the better effects are quite difficult to achieve." ... "Artistic presentation always succeeds to the degree that it is done well.  How easily it is done is entirely secondary."

 So don't buy the easy way. Buy only the effective way.  If some points can then be made easy, good.  If not, do it the hard way."

 

That's Whiteman from town's tip the cap to the dedicated professionals that don't cheese-it on making real, authentic, quality stuff!      :thumbs:

For the time being as my mind set is that I believe that I will need more funds than I am currently willing to pour into this prroject were I to go the authentic route, I will settle for cosmetically presentable (and able to fool the untrained eye!)   However, things may change and I may end up manufacturing my own door hinges with a anvil and hammer ... :shocked:

 Forthe time being I am pleased with the game that Ive got going and I am pretty sure that others will agree basically to my point of view.  

To those that think out of the box....   :beerchug:

A back hoe for your project is about right with maybe a rear scraper blade for leveling.

I wouldn't think your walls will require much larger footings then normal because of the materials your be using.

 

One of the small things to look into later is horses, maybe to rent but mostly for your own enjoyment.

Think lawn mowers.

 

Wood drys differently from place to place due to moisture and other factors. For the most part the modern world drys and pressure treats todays wood stacked high in large open air warehouses. The weight of the squires squeeze out the moisture and applies pressure whilst the over head sprinkler system feeds the wood with preservatives.

This is a common practice but will vary from company to company.

 

I've thought of buying a small saw mill but decided to buy some specialized chain saw tools instead and just break down and order the Timber from a company that deals in large pieces.

 

Working for your wood is a good idea and for the stone too.

I Trade when ever we can but stay away like its the plaque from bartering.

 

You might be pleasantly surprised at how much less your project can cost if you do much of the work your self. Even if its administrative things will add up quick.

 

I have a feeling as time goes by that there will be areas of your project that will be done in the authentic manner, the time isn't right to discover them yet.

When I started designing this project years ago I thought of adding a facade over a wooden framed building. It worked out all right and all the pieces came together, except it wasn't right!

Decades of study, my wife, a good friend willing to help me to understand what a castle really is and many other things led me where I'm at now.

Which I'll admit isn't and can't be for every one, but is definitely for us and no doubt is not an easy place to be.

It's what some call a 'life choice' I believe.

 

  However, things may change and I may end up manufacturing my own door hinges with a anvil and hammer ...  

naawww we'll work something out,    :D

 

Find what makes you happy and follow that path on your project, it's a steep, winding, at times dangerous climb but well worth the view.

Back hoe will probably be the destructive tool of choice.  Horses fit in nicely.  Wasn't thiking about those (only because I don't know the price and the care etc. But that sounds good.  Iv'e got family who are into horses... :idea3:

 So here: what are you doing about your lighting situation?  Im somewhat under the impression that you'll be making loop holes and slit-type window openings.  So that brings me full circle back to my original question I posted back at CQ which was wassup with getting max light w/out compromising authentic look?

And another question: Which would you personally choose between the following as a solution to a proposed lighting problem; a)larger windows on the ext allowing more light or b) stronger int lighting even if it had to be obvious and would somewhat detract from the authentic thing?   or is it c) Im a cave-dweller at heart and type posts by torch-light anyway, so what do I care?

C...of course!!  No not really.

 

what are you doing about your lighting situation?  I'm somewhat under the impression that you'll be making loop holes and slit-type window openings.

 

Yep we are but will be using full size windows as well.

The arrow slits we will be using have a 1 sq. foot outer opening with a inner area of 4 high x 3 long. This size of opening gives an unbelievable amount of light for going through an 8 foot wall.

The vaults are one of the very few areas with out some form of window or slits.

 

 

The windows of choice for us is of several types.

 

 

[*] the arrow slits are on the average of 1 foot wide.

 

 

[*] Most windows are two foot wide x 2 foot high up to 6 foot high and 6 foot inner angles. Some of ours are doubles with a foot between the frames like this one which is our favorite.

 

 

This illistration is from Mc Gibbons and Ross.

 

 

[*] The chapel window is stained glass and is one of a kind but its frame was used in medieval times.

 

 

Another one from Mc Gibbons and Ross

 

We are using electric lights well hidden in medieval ceiling fixture and wall sconces as well as candle holders.

In areas like the office, barns, animal sick room, kitchens, and a part of my forge work room the lights will have modern as well as older types of fixtures.

 

About not losing the authentic look, here's a few examples that might shed some light, ha ha

 

 

notice the above because it has several of different sizes and shapes including arrow slits.

 

 

 

This ones Orel window is about average for an Irish tower house.

 

 

On this one the inner angle is easier to see and this was the hall at one time.

 

It's the inner side openings that let in the light and the math is fairly easy, let me know the size you are thinking of using and I'll give you the calculations.

We've some really good images in the castle section and it might be worth a look see.

I feel-ist that thine hast smiten me a blow with the sword of one-up-manship!!!   :Isvader:

It was quite good to see the pictures.  I understand well how different window sizes etc will/wont affect the aestetics of the building and all of that.  I wasnt really thinking too much about having loop holes and regular windows.  But that's ok , because now I have just that much more to play with.

Hope we go to a new page ....... this ones slow to load with all the data.

 Work is getting busy now - that's good though.  I have this nutty idea for funding the castle which should work well but don't know where to post it so...  oh well.

Right on, thanks for the pic's.  Again...its all good stuff.