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<rss version="2.0"><channel><title>FIRE  HAMMER and ANVIL Latest Topics</title><link>https://castleduncan.com/forum/forum/178-fire-hammer-and-anvil/</link><description>FIRE  HAMMER and ANVIL Latest Topics</description><language>en</language><item><title>A few new additions to my tools</title><link>https://castleduncan.com/forum/topic/4050-a-few-new-additions-to-my-tools/</link><description><![CDATA[
<p>A over 200 lb industrial swage block at least a hundred years old, don't know for sure, with no name so far, still looking.</p><p> </p><p>This one is 15 x 15 x 41/2 inches</p><p><a class="ipsAttachLink ipsAttachLink_image" href="https://castleduncan.com/forum/uploads/monthly_12_2008/post-16-1228449505.jpg" data-fileid="6294" data-fileext="jpg" rel=""><img data-fileid="6294" class="ipsImage ipsImage_thumbnailed" alt="Swage_Block5.jpg" src="https://castleduncan.com/forum/uploads/monthly_12_2008/post-16-1228449505_thumb.jpg" loading="lazy"></a></p><p> </p><p>and a rare (at least to me and several other people) Tong from the <em>Rotary Linch Tong co</em>. I have tried this jewel out and it is astounding how well it works.</p><p>The company now makes oilfield tools to retrieve broken and or lost bits in drill holes.</p><p> </p><p><a class="ipsAttachLink ipsAttachLink_image" href="https://castleduncan.com/forum/uploads/monthly_12_2008/post-16-1228484432.jpg" data-fileid="6295" data-fileext="jpg" rel=""><img data-fileid="6295" class="ipsImage ipsImage_thumbnailed" alt="Tong_2.jpg" src="https://castleduncan.com/forum/uploads/monthly_12_2008/post-16-1228484432_thumb.jpg" loading="lazy"></a></p><p> </p><p><a class="ipsAttachLink ipsAttachLink_image" href="https://castleduncan.com/forum/uploads/monthly_12_2008/post-16-1228484479.jpg" data-fileid="6296" data-fileext="jpg" rel=""><img data-fileid="6296" class="ipsImage ipsImage_thumbnailed" alt="Tong_1.jpg" src="https://castleduncan.com/forum/uploads/monthly_12_2008/post-16-1228484479_thumb.jpg" loading="lazy"></a></p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">4050</guid><pubDate>Fri, 05 Dec 2008 04:06:09 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Ebay auctions</title><link>https://castleduncan.com/forum/topic/3938-ebay-auctions/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>Everyone knows that China is importing, with the blessings of our politicians, all most everything that this country used to make for itself.</p><p>Well to add to that insult here is the injury. </p><p> </p><p>There is at least one individual who is importing blacksmithing equipment including swedge blocks and tools from China and at least one guy who buys it from him for resell.</p><p>Ok thats not the problem, other then the bad metal these things are made with, its how they are selling this stuff. </p><p>This guy brings in it into the country, it sits out in the weather to <strong><em>AGE it</em></strong>, he beats on it too make it look old then  He has a buddy wonder into the holding area so a claim that this stuff came from an old barn etc. can be made and he changes this story often.</p><p>How much does he have in a swage block before he sells it on Ebay for top dollar? less then $ 80 usd.</p><p>It isn't so much the China made stuff which is a hazard in it self when playing with white hot metal ---- he has to present this stuff as old and well made which it isn't.</p><p> </p><p>So buyer beware and ask the seller about the item before you buy it.</p><p>Its the same old game ---- just a different day is all.</p>]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">3938</guid><pubDate>Mon, 24 Nov 2008 17:35:19 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Anvil Repair</title><link>https://castleduncan.com/forum/topic/3698-anvil-repair/</link><description><![CDATA[
<p>Anvil Repair, </p><p>Whilst not a hugely popular topic and for all intents and purposes seems not something to talk about in polite company according to authors and others who believe a antique should remain as it is.</p><p> </p><p>Me? I believe if your looking to collect things then thats what you should do. </p><p>But I would caution about collecting anvils.</p><p>One, Their not something that will fit nicely in a cupboard or album,</p><p>Two, Usually heavy and guarantied to leap out at toes at shins or unsuspecting visitors. </p><p>Three, They <em>Will Not</em> pay back the investment with much if any increase over the purchase price.</p><p> </p><p>Anvil's are something unique in many ways due to there being pivotal points in history. Some where in all the worlds civilizations and mankind's endeavors the lowly anvil has played an important part.</p><p>An item of everyday life, and yet they remain obscure and taken for granted. Possible because even in todays modern world there are anvils all around us.</p><p>{ Who hasn't heard of Acme Anvils and a certain coyote? <img alt=":laughlong.gif:" src="https://castleduncan.com/forum/uploads/emoticons/default_laughlong.gif" loading="lazy">} </p><p> </p><p>So, all that being said lets get down to the hard facts shall we?</p><p>Is the anvil your looking to repair worth the time and money ...... to you that is as I don't mean as a antique or door stop.</p><p> </p><p>Mine was!! </p><p>So I went looking for info and found very little on the web.</p><p>Oh I ran into the bit about pre-heating the anvil and using stick welding rod and even that wasn't easy to find.</p><p>Then I found the article below by Ernie Leimkuhler and things fell into place. </p><p> </p><p>I owe him a large Thank You!! and have told him so several times.</p><p> </p><p>Using his methods I have repaired my anvil with great success and while not a bell ringer, the Wilkinson brand never was, it has a sweet tone from the tip of the horn to the tail!</p><p>Once again this anvil that was so badly abused then for over 70 years written off as a yard ornament used to crack nuts for squirrels is doing what it was made to do, work.    </p><p> </p><p> </p><p></p><div style="width: 100%; background-color:lightblue"><p>MIG Welding Methods</p><p> </p><p>Originally Posted to: rec.crafts.metalworking</p><p>By Ernie Leimkuhler  </p><p> </p><p> </p><p>With a 250 amp MIG Welder, life will be pretty easy. Grinding the surface with a coarse 9" right angle grinder will help </p><p>true it up, but to build up the edges and fill holes you will need to lay down some hardface. If you were stick welding </p><p>then</p><p> you would need to go through the usual rigamarol of preheating to 400 deg F and allowing it to slow cool. Since you have </p><p>a MIG, life will be much easier.</p><p>Rankin makes several hardfacing wire products that work wonderfully. For general buildup I use Rankin BBG ( rockwell C47 )</p><p> , and for the final surface I use Rankin DDG ( rockwell C56 ). The wires come in .045" and .065", but the you will only</p><p> be able to run the .045" in a 250 amp MIG, since .065" wire requires about 350 amps. The Rankin hardfacing wires are </p><p>actually a dual-shield product. This means that they are flux-core wires that are run with a gas shield. Dual-shield burns</p><p> very hot so no preheat is necessary.</p><p>To fill holes first you need to gouge out the holes with the edge of a grinding wheel. The idea is to grind out the cracks </p><p>and any gunk that is wedged in the holes. If the edges are cracked then grind them too. Any surface that is to be hardfaced</p><p> must be ground first to get rid of any contaminants. If your anvil is cast or forged steel then you can also hardface the </p><p>horn. If it is cast iron then you have to lay down a layer of nickle rod to act as a buttering pass. Then lay down the</p><p> hardface on top of that. Having a hardfaced horn is really nice. I rebuilt the face on an old trenton anvil last year and </p><p>I went ahead and hardfaced the horn while I was at it. You will be running the MIG at almost full power, so be prepared for</p><p> some heavy welding.</p><p>Personally I love the Rankin wires and would never go back to stick rod. The odd thing about the rankin wires is that you </p><p>end up with a layer of flux that cools on top of the bead just like stick rod, but the flux self ejects as it cools.</p><p> So some light tapping and it falls off real clean. Make sure to clean off all of the flux before laying down a second pass</p><p> to prevent flux inclusions. Lay down beads of about 3/4" width and make sure to weave as you go to spread it out. You will </p><p>find that the anvil will get quite warm as you progress. If as you grind off the added metal you find small pockets you </p><p>missed, just fill them in. Be careful about hardfacing around the hardie hole since grinding it out can be quite difficult.</p><p> A handfile will cut the BBG wire, but the DDG is way to hard. It\'s like filing glass.</p><p>If you wanted a harder surface, they also make a hardfacing wire that has Tungsten Carbide in it ( rockwell C62 ). </p><p>I usually paint my anvils with Hammerite and clean up any markings with a hand chisel.</p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p>After years of trying to get a "round toit" - the Elektric Anvil has been re-integrated into the Celtic Knot.</p><p> I have closed "ElektricAnvil.net" and am now working on adding new material to the knot. Come back soon to see</p><p> what's new at the Celtic Knot. 		 </p><p></p></div>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">3698</guid><pubDate>Thu, 30 Oct 2008 15:54:11 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>AN Old 400 lb Wilkinson Anvil</title><link>https://castleduncan.com/forum/topic/3565-an-old-400-lb-wilkinson-anvil/</link><description><![CDATA[
<p>Since I'm re-writing this post I'll start at the beginning.</p><p> </p><p>My anvil was made sometime between 1780 and 1830 by the Wilkinson Forge at Queens Cross in Dudley England. </p><p>After checking the Anvils in America book by Richard Postman I've found it has the characteristics of the middle years of the foundry,  somewhere around the 1800 mark but NO later then 1830.   </p><p>Its a large 400 lb Blacksmithing anvil of the London pattern and has been abused at times in its life.</p><p> </p><p>Meg and I drove to Nebraska in her Jeep Wrangler to pick it up after seeing it for sale on Ebay. </p><p>Loading it was really up to us but the man who had it listed through his shop did his best to help us including using a 2 wheel dolly in the rain soaked sponge of a back yard and up a 20 foot ramp. </p><p> </p><p>The man who had owned it that my wife and i bought it from claimed it had been owned by a Railroad company and used in the Interurban train car building some time around 1910. </p><p>He said he had gotten it from a man who had worked there until the yard was shut down  </p><p>The info was more then alittle vague and as we find out more I'll add it to this post.</p><p> </p><p>I do know it spent the last 40 - 60 + years slowly sinking into this guys yard and only being used to crack nuts on for the yard squirrels.  </p><p>Not certain if the red carpet was to neal on as the nuts were cracked or where they were placed, also <em><strong>I have no freaking idea why it was painted red, now a faded pink!!</strong></em></p><p> </p><p>This old anvil has now been very successfully repaired. The how to is under another post about Anvil Repair.</p><p> </p><p><a class="ipsAttachLink ipsAttachLink_image" href="https://castleduncan.com/forum/uploads/monthly_10_2008/post-16-1225385641.jpg" data-fileid="6219" data-fileext="jpg" rel=""><img data-fileid="6219" class="ipsImage ipsImage_thumbnailed" alt="101220003503_05_05.jpg" src="https://castleduncan.com/forum/uploads/monthly_10_2008/post-16-1225385641.jpg" loading="lazy"></a></p>
]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">3565</guid><pubDate>Fri, 07 Jul 2006 02:06:21 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Touch Mark</title><link>https://castleduncan.com/forum/topic/3575-touch-mark/</link><description><![CDATA[<p>A Touch Mark is a marking representing the blacksmith or forge on every piece of work that is finished. Like American cattle brands these marks varied greatly and many can still be traced to the original forges.</p><p> </p><p>We have started the paperwork to register ours which is <strong>(|)</strong>, The  <strong>(</strong> represents Craftworks and the <strong>|)</strong> is for Duncan</p>]]></description><guid isPermaLink="false">3575</guid><pubDate>Mon, 13 Oct 2008 03:50:36 +0000</pubDate></item></channel></rss>
